WHELPING PUPS & MORE
I found this site years ago. I no longer find this site available. It was a site put up by a Chow Rescue. Following is the info I obtained from that site.
If you have not previously went to this page whelping puppies - I highly recommend that you do.
Table of Contents: The list below have been bookmarked and will take you to that section of the page by clicking a topic.
*
Introduction
* Preparing the Bitch
* Choosing a Stud Dog
* Paperwork
* Breeding Timeline
* Pregnancy Timeline
* Preparing Your Whelping Kit
* Whelping the Litter
* Raising Puppies Timeline
* Finding And Dealing With Puppy Buyers
* Health Guarantees
* Financial Considerations
* Resources
Introduction
Breeding a litter of puppies is a task to be taken very, very seriously. You are
producing life of your own volition for a wide variety of reasons. Some of those
reasons will be good ones, some will not. But this decision should be thought
through very, very carefully. Before reading further, please read the Breeding
Your Dog article. Also, this document should be taken only as a starting point.
If after reading this document, you still want to breed your bitch, I strongly
suggest that you get and read the books listed in the resource section.
Further, I recommend you consult with your bitch's breeder for guidance in this
matter. Dogs should be bred for one reason and one reason only: To improve the
breed. If you are reading this with the intention of breeding to make a quick
buck, educate the children, or to fulfill your bitch's feminine needs, please
don't breed your dog! Seriously, as you'll learn as you read on, done properly,
breeding is rarely a money-maker; more likely a money drain! Children can become
educated much more fully than you intended when something goes wrong in a
breeding. Losing the bitch and all her puppies is probably not the lesson you
intended but it happens all to frequently. And, of course, as to the last one,
most bitches really want to be your beloved companion 24 hours a day, so if you
really want to make your dog happy, spay her and spend more time with her! But,
if you are determined to go on, then please read this article thoroughly. It
covers the responsible breeding of dogs to produce quality puppies and give them
the best start in life.
If you have a dog that is pregnant right now, please do not use this article as
your sole source of information. Please look for a qualified veterinarian in
your area to assist you with whelping the puppies.
The information in this article has been obtained by my own experience, research
through literature and by talking to knowledgeable breeders. Many thanks go to
Vicki Blodgett and Terri Herigstad for being so willing to share their hard won
expertise. Also, I'd like to thank Cindy Tittle Moore for her support of my
first solo article project.
Preparing the Bitch
What do I need to do before I breed my bitch?
This is really two questions:
What should I do before I decide to breed my bitch and, then, once that decision
is made, what do I do next.
Okay, what do I do before I decide to breed my bitch?
Before you breed a dog, you need to decide whether or not that dog is an
appropriate candidate for breeding. First of all, no bitch should be bred before
the age of 2. They are just not physically mature enough yet. Let them grow up
and develop before they go through the physical strain of breeding, carrying,
and whelping puppies. This shouldn't be a problem however, because you'll be
plenty busy during those two years. Your dog will be in preparation for breeding
for the first two years of her life. Everything you do for her, including
providing quality nutrition and health care, obedience training, showing,
working, and loving will make her a better mother and help her to produce a
healthier litter.
I can see why nutrition and health care are important concerns, but how do
those other things make her a better brood bitch?
They are all important in different ways. The most important is probably the
last one. Pregnancy, delivery, and puppy raising are very stressful on a dog and
knowing that you love her really does make her job easier. For one thing, she'll
trust you to help with the puppies, rather than feeling that she needs to defend
them. The obedience training comes into play in the strangest ways. Sometimes a
female will get overly anxious when her new puppies start crying: being able to
put her on a down stay so that she is giving them ready access to what they want
(food!) will give you great peace of mind.
Okay, but what about showing and working, how can those have any effect on
her qualities as a brood bitch?
There are two reasons why a brood bitch should "get out of the house." First of
all, she'll be a happier dog if she has activities in her life and gets to go
places with you and do fun things. If she's happier, she'll be a better mother.
It's that simple. Secondly, you need to have some way of knowing that your bitch
is worthy of breeding. That sounds very judgmental, but I'll remind you that we
are discussing responsible breeding here. That means that we are breeding to
better the breed. The best way to ensure that you are improving the breed is to
only breed quality animals to other quality animals with an eye to minimizing
faults and strengthening good qualities. We'll discuss more on choosing a stud
dog later, however, you also need to choose your brood bitch. If you are
starting out with your first dog, you'll need to look long and hard at her and
decide if she's worthy of breeding. This has nothing to do with how much you
love her, obviously you do, this has to do with bettering the breed. This can be
a difficult decision to make when your heart is involved. Hearts tend to fuzz up
our vision so that faults are minimized and good qualities are enhanced. This is
where the idea of showing and testing our animals originated. These events give
us a better idea of whether or not our dogs are worthy of breeding. But, keep in
mind, everyone has their own standards and they won't all agree. Some people
won't breed a bitch until she's a Champion in the show ring. Some people don't
consider a bitch worthy of breeding until she's got her Master Hunter title or
her Utility Dog title. You have to make these decisions yourself, keeping in
mind the idea of bettering the breed. At the minimum, you should have her
evaluated by another, more knowledgeable pair of eyes. Her breeder would be an
ideal choice, however, that's not always possible. Any experienced breeder in
your particular breed should be able to help you evaluate your bitch honestly
and without the rosy glow of love changing your perspective.
Okay, I'm satisfied that she's a quality bitch, worthy of breeding, what's
the next step?
Hold on there! Not so fast! This is a long process, remember? There is another
reason you need to wait until your bitch is over two years of age. Health
Checks! You'll need to have various health checks done in order to determine
whether or not your dog should be bred. The necessary health checks vary from
breed to breed and you should consult a good book on your breed or a
knowledgeable breeder to determine what tests you'll need to have done.
The most common tests are:
Hip X-rays: Have a veterinarian x-ray your dog's hips and submit those x-rays to
the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) for evaluation. If your dog's hips
are rated Fair, Good, or Excellent, your dog is normal and can be bred. If they
are rated dysplastic, please spay your bitch as soon as possible and discuss
this diagnosis with your vet. Hip Dysplasia is an often painful joint disorder
that can be treated in various ways. It is hereditary and no dog that is
dysplastic should be bred.
Elbow X-rays: Recently, the dog community has become aware that elbows are also
at risk of becoming dysplastic. Most responsible breeders are also having elbow
x-rays done and evaluated by the OFA.
Eyes: In many breeds, a disease called PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is a
serious problem. A board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist can examine your
pets eyes and ensure that they are normal. This test must be done on an annual
basis. Since PRA is a progressive disease, a dog can be fine one year and show
symptoms the next. Eye examinations can then be sent on to CERF (Canine Eye
Registry Foundation) for certification which must be renewed annually. There are
other eye disease common to different breeds as well; you will need to research
to find out what is applicable for your breed.
Brucellosis: This is a canine venereal disease that can be transmitted in other
ways as well. Even virgin dogs or bitches should be tested prior to breeding.
Most stud dog owners require recent brucellosis tests before allowing breeding
to occur. They will generally have tested their dogs within the last six months.
If they haven't tested their dogs in the last six months, ask that they do so
before breeding to your bitch! You should require all of the above testing from
the stud dog owner as well as providing it to them. More on choosing a stud dog,
below.
Choosing a Stud Dog
Choosing a sire for your litter is as important a decision as choosing your
bitch was originally. You need to spend some time and effort on this decision.
This is a good time to get some expert advice. If at all possible, you should
consult with your bitch's breeder and ask them to spend some time with you going
over the various options so that you understand why one dog would be better for
your bitch than another. If your breeder or another expert isn't available to
spend some time with you, then you'll need to do the research on your own so you
can make a knowledgeable decision.
The first thing you'll want to do is take the information you've gathered over
the years about your bitch and analyze her strengths and weaknesses. Does she
have a weak topline but a nice front? How is her rear angulations? What about her
coat texture? Her temperament? You can see know why getting your dog out and
showing and/or working her can be helpful in this process. If you don't know
what's wrong with your bitch, you don't know what you want to fix in a future
generation. And, that's really what you are trying to do -- improve the breed by
improving on your bitch. So be brutally honest with yourself. You know you love
your bitch, that's not in question here, but if you can't be honest about her
flaws, then you can't fix them in a future generation. You'll want to focus on
one, maybe two, problems that you'd like to see improved and look for a stud dog
who is strong in those areas without being too weak in some other area. It can
become a delicate balancing act -- of course, with no guarantee of success.
There are two main theories in breeding that you'll want to understand. The
first one is probably the simplest: breeding like to like. This means that you
take the overall look of the bitch and find a stud dog that physically
compliments her look. The theory is that if you breed like to like, you'll get
like.
The second way to approach a breeding is more complicated. It's called line
breeding. It involves analyzing the pedigrees of your bitch and the potential
stud dogs to choose a good match. There are several ways to approach line
breeding. First of all, you need to understand several terms.
Line breeding is similar to breeding like to like only instead of collecting
physical similarities, you are collecting the genes of a particular dog.
Inbreeding is an extremely close line breeding. When you are starting out in
breeding, you want to keep away from inbreeding as it is risky unless you are
very sure of the pedigrees involved. The last type of pedigree-breeding is an
outcross. An outcross breeding will have a pedigree where there are no, or at
least very few, dogs in common. This often happens when you are breeding like to
like. Most breeders practice some form of line breeding, generally focusing on
one of the important studs in their breed.
Of course, you want to make sure that the dog you are concentrating on is worthy
of the honor. If you line breed on a mediocre dog -- or a dog with a particular
health problem -- you'll get what you asked for. This type of breeding is
particularly tricky and you want to make sure that you have carefully researched
the dogs in your bitch's pedigree so that you know where you'd want to go with
the line breeding.
In practice, you'll probably want to employ a combination of these two
techniques. You'll want to find a pedigree that is complimentary to your bitch
and a dog that is physically compatible as well. Again, this is a really good
time to seek the advice of knowledgeable breeders. Choosing a stud dog is also a
really good reason to become active in the breed's activities while your bitch
is young. This will allow you to be familiar with various stud dogs before you
bitch comes in season.
Once you've narrowed your choices down to two or three likely candidates, you'll
want to call the stud dog owners and interview them about their dogs. Most stud
dog owners will be honest with you about what their dogs are producing, their
strengths and weaknesses, and what you can expect. If they aren't forthcoming
about the problems as well as the benefits of their dogs, you should probably
steer clear of them.
At some point in the process, you'll have to make a decision about which dog
will be best for your litter. No one can make this decision for you but if
you've done your homework and been honest with yourself about your bitch, then
you'll probably find a compatible dog. Then you are ready to enter the genetic
crap shoot and see what you get. Because we know so little about the complicated
genetics behind our dogs, you really are making a shot in the dark. Even the
most experienced breeder makes mistakes -- this is why you want to be very
careful and thorough in your research.
Once your decision is made, you'll want to notify the stud dog owner about when
you expect your bitch to come in season so that they can make their own plans.
You will probably want to get your bitch to the stud dog within the first week
of her season so that she has time to adapt to her new surroundings before being
bred.
Paperwork
Keep the following information on file for each bitch/litter you produce:
Heat Record
1. Name of bitch
2. Litter Number (way to differentiate between litters at your kennel)
3. Date of onset
4. Interval
5. Smear date and results
6. Progesterone Test date and results
7. Breeding dates and comments on breeding
8. Palpitation dates and results
9. Ultrasound date and results
10. X-ray date and results
11. Notes on pregnancy
12. Track weight gain weekly
13. Track temperature from day 58-65, 3 times daily
14. Date and time whelping began
15. Date and time whelping ended
16. Notes on whelping
Litter Record (as required by the AKC)
1. Breed
2. Registered name and AKC number of dam
3. Registered name and AKC number of sire
4. Sire's owner's name
5. Date mated
6. Date litter whelped
7. Number of male puppies born
8. Number of female puppies born
9. AKC Litter Number
10. Sex, Color/Markings, Puppy ID number, Date Sold, Date Died, Name and address
of person to whom sold, Dates when following paperwork was supplied:
registration application or certificate and bill of sale; name and AKC number of
puppy.
Additional Litter Information
1. Time each puppy was born
2. Ribbon color or other identifying mark
3. Color of puppy
4. Sex
5. Weight at birth
6. Length at birth
7. A description of any problems
8. Whelping date
9. Sire and Dam
10. Time whelping started and ended
11. Notes on whelping
Puppy Record
1. Ribbon color
2. Call Name
3. Registered Name
4. Sex
5. Color
6. AKC Litter #
7. AKC Registration #
8. Date of Birth
9. Sire and Dam
10. Weight at Birth and when sold
11. Vaccinations Given (Date and Type)
12. Owner (include address and telephone numbers)
13. Date sold
14. Conditions of sale
15. Price
16. Notes on Development and Temperament
17. On the back of this form, track the weight of the puppies daily until they
are three weeks old and then weekly thereafter.
Litter Registration Application
Contact AKC and request this form. Once puppies are whelped, complete this form
and have stud dog owner sign the form. Send the completed form with appropriate
fee to AKC. It's nice to send a self- addressed stamped envelope with the
application to the stud dog owner so they can mail it on to the AKC without
delay. Litter registration applications must be received by the AKC within six
months of date of whelping in order to register puppies with the AKC. However,
you should submit this form as soon as the puppies are whelped so that you can
deliver the correct paperwork to the puppy buyers when they pick up their
puppies.
Puppy Registration Forms
For each puppy listed on the Litter Registration Application, you will get a
registration form to give to the puppy buyers so that they can register their
puppies with the AKC. Technically, the puppy buyer can name the puppy anything
they want. In reality, most breeders insist on their kennel name being the first
word in the dogs name. Additionally, some breeders have themes for their litters
and require the name of the puppy to fit into that theme. Make any special
requirements known to the buyers well in advance so they can pick out an
appropriate name for their puppy.
Breeding Timeline
Pre-Season
Choose your stud dog ahead of time. Let the stud dog owner know when you expect
your bitch to come in season. They'll let you know about any requirements they
have.
You should choose a backup as well, just in case your first choice isn't
available
Have your bitch examined by a veterinarian to ensure she is healthy. Have a
brucellosis test done as well.
As soon as you see first signs of your bitch being in season, contact the stud
dog owner. If your stud dog is out-of-the-area, you'll want to discuss shipping
arrangements at this time so that you'll be able to make all the necessary
arrangements.
If this is your bitch's first breeding, you'll want to know when she's ready to
be bred. See your veterinarian about smears and/or progesterone testing. This
will help you pinpoint the right time to get your bitch to the stud dog. This
will typically be between days 10 and 15 but could be much earlier or later.
You'll also want to schedule a brucellosis test so that the results will be
current for the stud dog owner.
When the bitch is ready
Contact the stud dog owner and let them know when and how the bitch will be
arriving.
If you are shipping the bitch, the stud dog owner will pick the dog up at the
airport and will need all the information. You should send all the paperwork
with the bitch. You can just tape an envelope to the crate.
If you are delivering the dog yourself, get good directions and bring all your
paperwork.
When the bitch comes home
Your bitch will stay with the stud dog owner for about a week or two.
When your bitch comes home, you should get some paperwork with her from the stud
dog owner, including a contract, copies of the stud dog's health clearances, the
stud dog's pedigree, and information on when the bitch was bred.
Pregnancy Timeline
Week One
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Fertilization occurs
2 cell embryos are in the oviduct
The embryo is fairly resistant to external interference in development
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible morning sickness
Possible personality changes
CARE OF THE BITCH
Normal feeding
Check any and all medications with vet prior to administering
No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments)
No live vaccines
TO DO LIST
Put together pedigree on litter
Write contract
Contact AKC for litter registration application
Start taking puppy reservations
Week Two (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Embryo will be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of week
Embryo enters the uterus
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible morning sickness
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as with Week One
TO DO LIST
Nothing special this week
Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Day 19 -- Implantation of embryos in uterus
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
See above
CARE OF THE BITCH
See above
TO DO LIST
Nothing special this week
Week Four (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development of eyes and spinal cords
Faces take shape
Fetuses grow from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm
Organogenesis begins-- Embryos are at their most susceptible to defects
Days 26 - 32 are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for the puppies)
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Possible clear vaginal discharge
Mammary development begins
CARE OF THE BITCH
After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy
Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long runs)
Add 1/4 cup cottage cheese or a hard boiled egg to food on alternating days
TO DO LIST
Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with vet if desired
Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development of toes, whisker buds, and claws
Fetuses look like dogs
Gender can be determined
Eyes (previously open) now close
Fetuses grow from 18 mm - 30 mm
Organogenesis ends -- embryos are fairly resistant to interference with
development
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Swelling becomes noticeable
Loss of "tuck-up"
Weight will start to increase
CARE OF THE BITCH
Slightly increase amount of food and switch to puppy kibble. If you feed one
meal a day, add an extra meal. If you feed twice a day, slightly increase one of
the meals.
Add daily multi-vitamin
Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in uterus
TO DO LIST
Nothing special this week
Week Six (Days 36-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Development of skin pigment
Fetuses should weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long
Fetal heartbeats can be heard with stethoscope
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Nipples darken and enlarge
Abdomen continues to enlarge
CARE OF THE BITCH
Add cottage cheese or hard boiled egg to food daily
Increase the amount of food in the extra meal
Bitch should start sleeping in whelping box
TO DO LIST
Assemble whelping box
By this time you should be fairly sure that the bitch is pregnant. Notify the
people on your puppy list. Let them know when you expect delivery.
Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and development continues
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Abdomen hair will start shedding
The bitch will start to look pregnant at this point
CARE OF THE BITCH
Slightly increase both meals
TO DO LIST
Stop any roughhousing or jumping
Radiographs (X-rays) possible to determine number and size of puppies
Week Eight (Days 50-57)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Fetal movement can be detected when bitch is at rest
Puppies can safely be born from now on
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Milk may be squeezed from nipples
The bitch will be very large.
CARE OF THE BITCH
Add moderate lunch
TO DO LIST
Gather whelping kit (see below)
Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number,
the emergency clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be
offering support during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact
before, during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't
be in!)
Make sure your car is gassed up and ready for a possible emergency trip to the
vet's office.
Week Nine (Days 58-65)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and Development continues
CHANGES IN THE BITCH
Nesting behavior may be seen
Bitch may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable)
Temperature should be around 100.8-100.2=B0
When temperature drops to around 98-99.4=B0, puppies should be born within 24
hours
Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches
CARE OF THE BITCH
Start taking temperature three times a day
TO DO LIST
Notify vet or emergency clinic when temperature drops so that they will be ready
if you have any problems
Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of bitch
Double check that whelping supplies are ready
Post Partum
Make sure each puppy gets some of the bitch's colostrums (first milk) within
first 24 hours.
Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish to reddish-brown (green is okay on
first day). If you see black discharge, contact your vet immediately!
Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth, take bitch and puppies to vet for check
up. The vet will ensure that the bitch hasn't retained any puppies or placentas
and that the puppies are in good health. You especially want to check for cleft
palates as these puppies probably won't survive and should be euthanized now.
Preparing Your Whelping
Kit
Car
Have your car ready in case you have to make a quick trip to the vet's office.
Ideally, you'll have someone to drive while you sit with the bitch. Take some
towels with you because it is very common for the bitch to start delivering with
the motion of the car. You should protect your car's carpeting or upholstery
with a sheet or blanket that can be washed. Make sure the car is gassed up and
ready to go. If you need to make the trip, you don't want to have to delay for
things like that.
Whelping Box
A box with sides large enough for the bitch to stretch out comfortably. She and
the pups will live in the box for the first few weeks. The whelping box should
have guard rails (also called pig rails) extending from the sides to protect the
puppies from their mother rolling over on them.
Newspapers
Keep a good supply of newspapers on hand to line the whelping box during the
actual whelping. As the papers become messy, you can just put a new layer down
and clean the whole thing up when the whelping is over.
Trash Can
Keep a trash can on hand for use during the whelping and while the pups are
growing up. Trust me -- puppies are messy!
Incubator Box
You'll need a smaller box on hand to put the puppies in when Mom is delivering
another puppy. You don't want the pups to get cold so line it with a towel and
keep it near a heat source or put a heating pad under the towel.
Sharp Safety Scissors
For cutting the umbilical cord.
Quick Stop Powder
To stop bleeding, if there is any, after cutting umbilical cord.
Betadine
For cleaning umbilical cord end after cut.
Hemostat forceps
For clamping off the umbilical cord prior to cutting it. You can use two and
tear the cord as an alternative to cutting it. This helps inhibit bleeding.
Dental Floss
For tying off the umbilical cord after cutting it.
Surgical Gloves
Use if you have to help deliver the puppies.
Digital Thermometer
For checking the bitch's temperature in the day's before her due date.
Bulb Syringe
For helping clear out puppies who are born with problems.
Flashlight
Puppies always seem to come in the middle of the night and if you need to let
your bitch go outside, you'll need to keep a close eye on her. A good strong
flashlight will make that easier.
Leash and flat buckle collar
Same reason as above. If you take her out on a leash, she's less likely to
disappear into a dark corner and leave a puppy there without your knowledge.
Clock
For timing the whelping and the time between puppies.
Notebook
For recording details. The puppy sheets mentioned in the record keeping sheet
will work as well.
Rickrack Ribbon
For identifying puppies. Tie a loose bit around each pups neck when you check
them out and weigh them after birth.
Food Scale
For weighing the puppies at birth and daily thereafter.
Heating Lamp
A 100 watt bulb installed with a dimmer switch in one corner of the box will
allow puppies to move toward the heat if they are too cool. The dimmer switch
will allow you to control the heat.
Fan
If the weather is very hot, you should keep a fan on hand. This is more for the
mother than the pups. Don't set the fan up to blow directly on the pups but
rather to move the air across the top of the whelping box.
Whelping Box Pads or Blankets
While the pups are still in the whelping box, you'll need to keep a blanket or
pad in their box. This pad will need to be changed twice a day or more,
depending on how well the dam cleans up after the pups. A piece of fleece with a
towel sewn to the back the same size as the whelping box makes a great pad. They
can be washed and bleached to keep them clean. Having four on hand will keep you
from having to do endless laundry. Don't put these pads in the whelping box
until the whelping is over.
Whelping the Litter
Well, it's show time! Your bitch is ready and, hopefully, so are you! Here are
some supplies you'll want to keep on hand:
On day 58 after the first breeding, you'll want to start taking your bitch's
temperature three times a day. A bitch's temperature will drop from around 101.4
to 99 degrees Fahrenheit or below a few hours before she is ready to whelp. A
fluctuation in temperature is very normal, what you are looking for is a
dramatic drop to below 99F. The temperature drop is the best indicator of
imminent whelping. Other signs of imminent whelping are restlessness,
discomfort, licking and looking at vulva. The bitch may refuse food prior to
whelping a swell. She will probably pant heavily.
These are all signs that whelping is imminent. Call your veterinarian and let
them know that the whelping is beginning so that they will be ready to answer
any questions or give advice if you have any problems. The bitch will start
pushing and straining at some point and may start digging at the bedding. She'll
pant heavily between contractions. The contractions should be visible in the
muscles along her back. You'll see them start at the top of her body and move
down.
If labor continues an hour or so without producing a puppy, let the bitch go
outside and walk around. This can help the labor progress. Also, the urge to
push can feel, to the bitch, as if she has to defecate. A well trained bitch
will not want to break housetraining and will fight the urge to push, delaying
labor. If the bitch is willing to go outdoors, keep a close eye on her. A maiden
bitch, in particular, may not know what to do with a new puppy and may abandon
it.
If labor continues for more than three hours without producing a puppy, call
your vet! You will probably need to take the bitch into the vet.
Assuming labor continues normally, the contractions will come faster and the
bitch will start pushing seriously. The water sac will appear, probably break,
and then the puppy will be delivered shortly. The placenta may or may not be
ready to be delivered at this point. You can gently pull on the cord to see if
it will come but you should never pull on the puppy to check. You may pull the
cord off the puppy and risk an umbilical hernia.
The bitch may want to eat the placentas. Opinions vary about whether or not this
is a good idea. Some people think it's good nutrition for the bitch when she's
exerting great effort. Others feel that the bitch will get diarrhea from eating
them. Some breeders compromise by letting the bitch eat one and then keeping
them away from her. Whatever you do, you want to make sure that you have a
placenta for each puppy born. If the bitch should retain a placenta, she is at
risk of having a serious uterine infection.
If you want to do this, you'll need to clear the water sac away from the puppy's
nose and mouth first. Hold the puppy upside down to help drain fluid and mucus
from its nose and throat. Rub the puppy very vigorously -- even roughly -- with
a dry, clean towel until the puppy squeaks. This rubbing will both clean the
puppy and stimulate it to start breathing.
Many people allow the bitch to clean the puppy and chew off the umbilical cord.
Others worry that the bitch may chew the cord off too close to the puppy
resulting in an umbilical hernia and choose to deal with this themselves just to
be safe. If you choose to do the task yourself, you'll want to cut the cord
about 1" away from the body and tie it with plain dental floss. Dip the tip and
the floss in Betadine solution (or another disinfectant such as iodine). It will
dry up and drop off in a day or so.
Once the pup is breathing and clean, whether you did it or the dam did it,
you'll want to check the puppy out carefully, weigh and measure the pup, check
for abnormalities such as cleft palate, and identify the puppy in some way.
Rickrack ribbon works very well. Measure and cut a piece large enough to tie
loosely around the puppy's neck. This is only necessary if you're puppies are
very similar. Other ways to mark the puppies include clipping bits of fur on
different parts of their bodies or marking them with nail polish.
If the bitch is having a break between puppies, you should let the puppy nurse.
The colostrums (first milk) that the puppies get is extremely important. It
carries immunities that protect the puppies from infection. The puppy's nursing
will also stimulate the bitch's contractions allowing her labor to progress.
Take a chance to rest and relax while you can. Don't worry, however, if you
can't get the puppies on the dam right away. They can go several hours without
getting milk with no problem. Once labor starts up again, move the puppies into
to the incubator box for safety while the dam is distracted.
Very often there will be a longish break between puppies about half way through.
You can take the bitch outside, although she may not want to leave the puppies
(you should encourage her!). Again, you'll want to keep a close eye on her to
make sure she doesn't deliver a puppy out there and not know what to do with it.
The puppies can come as quickly as 15 minutes apart or as long as an hour apart.
If the bitch goes more than an hour and you are think there are more puppies,
call your vet! There may be a puppy stuck and you'll want to ensure that you get
it out as soon as possible.
When your bitch is finished whelping, you'll notice her calm down. Her breathing
will slow and the contractions will stop. You should take the bitch and her
puppies to the vet within the next four or five hours if at all possible. Don't
go more than 24 hours without having them checked out. If the bitch has a
retained puppy or placenta, she is risking serious infection. If any of the
puppies have cleft palates or other deformities, you need to know as soon as
possible. Such puppies are usually humanely euthanized by your vet as they are
generally not likely to live.
There are a variety of problems you may run into. Again, keep your vet and/or
emergency vet's phone number handy in case you run into a situation you aren't
prepared for. If you have any question about what is happening or what you
should do next, don't hesitate to call the vet. You really are dealing with life
or death situations and it's much better to be safe than sorry.
Some breeders suggest keeping some drugs on hand to help the bitch should she
have trouble delivering. You can discuss this with your vet but I don't
recommend this practice. This drug is very strong and can cause serious
complications if the problem is a large puppy blocking the birth canal. A better
option is to keep in contact with your vet and take your bitch in if necessary.
There are some alternative medications that many breeders are using and
recommending now that have similar results without the risk of injury. For a
bitch whose labor is slowing down, there is a homeopathic treatment called
Caulaphyllum (SP????). This should be administered when the bitch is in a
non-productive labor. Do not use it unless the bitch is clearly in labor. For
puppies-in-distress, you can try a product called Bach's Rescue Remedy. It is a
good gentle "kick start" for pups in trouble. You would just put a couple of
drops on the puppies tongue. The nice thing about these remedies is that they
can't be overused. They are extremely gentle. Detractors from homeopathic or
alternative measures will tell you that these treatments won't do anything, good
or bad. (For more information on this topic, see t he Resource section below.
There are a couple of books on Natural Health.)
The first problem you might see is a bitch that starts labor but doesn't proceed
to delivering. First you should try walking her around outside to see if that
helps her relax enough to start pushing. If that doesn't work in about 15
minutes, you can try a technique called "feathering." Put on surgical gloves and
apply a small amount of lubricant such as KY Jelly. Gently, gently, gently
insert one finger into the bitch's vulva and gently tickle -- or feather -- her
along the top of her vagina. This can help stimulate stronger contractions. If
this doesn't produce a quick result or the bitch is getting tired at all, call
your vet. You will probably be making a trip in to get some expert care.
The vet will probably x-ray your bitch to determine how many puppies are waiting
to be born and whether or not you are dealing with a malpresentation (puppy
trying to go out the wrong way). If all looks well, the vet will probably give
your bitch injections of calcium and/or pituitary Oxytosin. These injections
often stimulate strong contractions and get the labor moving along. If they
don't work, or if you are dealing with an overly large puppy or a
malpresentation, the vet will probably recommend a cesarean section. C-sections
should not be taken lightly but they are often unavoidable. They are very
expensive and put the life of the mother and puppies at great risk. You should
decide at this time whether or not you want the vet to spay your bitch during
the C-section. Sometimes, there won't be any choice. If the uterus is badly
damaged or infected, they will have to spay your bitch at this time. Once you
reach the point of a c-section, many of the decisions will be taken out of your
hands.
Discussing this possibility with your vet ahead of time is a good idea so you
can find out what procedures they use and how amenable they are to your helping
to revive the puppies as they are delivered. Many vets will not allow you into
their examination area, however, some are grateful for the additional hands in
reviving puppies. One of the biggest problems with a C-section is the anesthesia
given the bitch. Because the puppies are still attached to her system, they
will, inevitably, be anesthetized as well. It is really important that your vet
take this into consideration when anesthetizing the bitch. Many vets will mask
her down and this is the recommended procedure. This means that the vet
administers isoflourene gas to start her off, rather than administering a drug
like Valium-Ketamine (SP?) to put her to sleep before starting the gas. If your
bitch is high-strung and/or aggressive, the vet will probably insist on doing
the Valium-Ketamine option, but if your bitch is placid and biddable, you should
ask that they mask her down. The gas is much easier on the puppies systems and
they will be much easier to revive. The recovery of your bitch will be difficult
after a c-section. It is major abdominal surgery and puts a huge strain on her
system. However, if all goes well, she should still be able to care for and
nurse her litter. Your vet will give you detailed instructions for her care.
They will often prescribe antibiotics to help her avoid infection. You should be
careful administering any antibiotics as they will generally cause both the dam
and the pups to have diarrhea.
A case when you won't have time to get to the vet is when you can't get a puppy
breathing. Every puppy should be rubbed vigorously until they squeak and start
moving around. Some of them are born with a squeak and don't need any additional
help but more often than we'd like, puppies need extra help. If the vigorous
rubbing doesn't work, you'll want to act quickly. The fastest way to get fluid
out of the puppy's throat and nose is to hold the puppy firmly and raise it
above your head and swing it quickly down between your legs. The centrifugal
force can clear the nose and throat. If this doesn't work, you can try using a
bulb syringe to aspirate any possible fluid. While you are working on the pup,
keep rubbing it vigorously and make sure it stays warm. Hopefully you'll be
rewarded with that gasp of life and a healthy puppy.
At some point, however, you may have to give up on a puppy. This is an extremely
difficult decision but if you've worked on the puppy for 15 minutes without
response, you are unlikely to revive the puppy. Consult with your veterinarian
about what to do with the dead puppy. Sadly, this isn't an uncommon event in a
whelping.
Again, there is no shame in calling your vet for help. If you are unsure what to
do or are presented with a situation you or your bitch don't understand. Get
professional help!
Once the whelping is over, you'll be ready to let the new family settle down and
get some well-deserved rest. And you'll need that rest yourself. Make sure the
bitch has relieved herself and gotten some fluids. Give her a sponge bath so she
is clean and fresh. Feeding her chicken broth with rice is a good first meal
after whelping as it will be gentle on her stomach but give her plenty of fluid
and nutrition.
A first-time mother may have some serious doubts about these puppies,
particularly if the delivery was painful for her. This is another time where
obedience training comes in handy. It is extremely important that you get the
puppies nursing both for their sake and hers. Put the bitch on a down-stay, get
in the whelping box with her to reassure her, and put the puppies on her. If she
growls or complains, just keep her head away from the puppies. She's going to be
tired and won't fight you too much -- besides, she's used to obeying your
commands, right? The obvious benefit here is that the pups will get that
necessary colostrums which will provide them with their mother's immunities. The
added benefit, however, is that the nursing triggers the release of hormones
into her bloodstream. These hormones help promote the bitch's mothering
instincts. The more the puppies nurse, the more loving the mother will feel
towards them. It's true of humans as well. Hopefully, the bitch will settle down
and feel content as the puppies nurse. You should still supervise her with the
puppies until you are sure she has fully accepted them and her new role.
Raising Puppies
Timeline
Week One (Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
90% of time spent sleeping
10% eating
Susceptible to heat/cold
Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
They can right themselves if placed upside down
Needs stimulation for urination/defecation
Rapid development of central nervous system
Need constant care from bitch
Rectal temperatures 94-97
Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again
Weight should double by end of week
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Chart weight daily (2 x daily first 2 days)
Examine puppies daily
Trim nails weekly
Keep whelping box around 85? (this means if it's hotter than that out, put a fan
in the room or turn on the air conditioning, if it's colder than that get a heat
lamp to put above the whelping box)
When you handle the puppies, it's a good idea use a towel when you hold them.
The puppies urinate upon stimulation and will inevitably find your attention
stimulating!
If your breed requires tail, ear, or dew claw docking, schedule this with your
vet.
CARE OF THE BITCH
Keep dam on fluids for first 24 hours (i.e.. chicken broth, etc.)
Feed three full meals a day after that
Supplement with 250 mg Vitamin C twice daily
If puppies are fussy, supplement bitch with Vitamin B complex
Check mammary glands twice daily (looking for signs of mastitis -- swelling,
hardness, pus, etc.)
Keep an eye on vaginal discharge (looking for signs of infection)
Make sure bitch eats, drinks, and relieves herself
TO DO LIST
Keep detailed records on puppies' weight and behavior
Keep charting bitch's temperature
Call puppy buyers with results of whelping
Week Two (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Eyes should open around days 8-10
Ears should open around days 13-17
Temperatures should be around 97-99
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Keep whelping box around 80
Begin holding puppies in different ways (applying light stress)
Trim nails weekly
CARE OF THE BITCH
Bitch should get three times her normal amount of food
TO DO LIST
Continue as above
Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Teeth begin to erupt
Puppies stand up and start walking
Begin to lap liquids
Defecate/urinate without stimulation
Start becoming aware of environment
Start playing with littermates
Develop sense of smell
Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Start adding stimuli (toys) to puppies' life
Start giving specific stresses when handling (i.e.. pinch an ear or toe gently)
Start giving pups milk replacer to lap for one meal a day -- after two days, add
some very mushy food
Weigh puppies every 2 days
Give puppies a dirty shirt of yours to play with
Start weekly grooming sessions (brush, trim nails, look at teeth, etc.)
Week Three (Days 15-21) continued
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as above
TO DO LIST
Purchase milk replacer to feed puppies
Week Four (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Begin to eat food
Begin to bark, wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and chase
Use legs well
Tire easily
Depth perception starts
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Keep mom with them a lot! Things can get overwhelming at this age and Mom will
add stability for them
Each pup needs individual attention
Offer food that is the consistency of cooked oatmeal
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as above
TO DO LIST
Start limiting bitch's access to pups before offering them food
Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Group activities and sexual play will begin
Dominance order starts
Rapid growth/development
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Reduce fluids in puppies' food
Make sure other people start coming to see pups
Begin weaning
Play radio at normal volume near pups for 5 minutes at a time
CARE OF THE BITCH
Start reducing amount of food to discourage milk development
Keep a careful eye on mammary glands
TO DO LIST
Discuss vaccination schedule with veterinarian
Week Six (Days 26-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Growth and development continue
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Offer soft, damp food
Chart weekly weight
Individual attention crucial -- give each puppy time with you away from litter
Week Six (Days 26-42) continued
CARE OF THE BITCH
To prepare bitch for weaning: Day 1 -- no food Day 2 -- 1/4 normal maintenance
meal Day 3 -- 1/2 normal maintenance meal Day 4 -- 3/4 normal maintenance meal
Day 5 -- full amount of normal maintenance meal
Keep bitch on puppy food for several weeks to help her recover from the strain
of breeding, whelping, and raising puppies
Keep careful eye on mammary glands
TO DO LIST
Continue as above
Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Total hearing/visual capacity
Will investigate anything
Can't respond yet to name
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Pups should be weaned and on regular puppy food
Pups can go to new homes
CARE OF THE BITCH
Keep careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up
TO DO LIST
Week Eight (Days 50-56)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
First fear period
Starts learning name
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Don't ship puppies
Can start training puppies in small steps
CARE OF THE BITCH
Continue as above
TO DO LIST
Continue as above
Week Nine (Days 57-63)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Develops strong dominant and subordinate behavior among littermates
Begins to learn right behavior
Motor skills improve
Short attention span
Starts focusing attention on owner rather than other puppies
Separate littermates
Start house training
CARE OF THE PUPPIES
Continue lots of individual attention
Week Ten (Days 64-70)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
Safe to ship puppies by air
For more information on puppy development and raising, see Your New Puppy.
Finding And Dealing
With Puppy Buyers
Finding good homes for your puppies should be one of your highest priorities.
This is not an easy task but it is a very rewarding one. Matching the right dog
with the right family is a great feeling! Responsible breeders try to have a
list of interested buyers before they do the breeding -- or at least before they
whelp the litter. As stated before, there is a serious pet overpopulation
problem in this country and no litter should be bred without a purpose. That
purpose should include providing wanted puppies to good homes.
The most effective way to find homes is by connecting into the network of
breeders in your area. This is best done by finding a breed or kennel club in
your area, joining, becoming active, and taking advantage of their resources.
Many clubs publish litter listings in their newsletters and then club members
refer callers to those litters. This is another way that your active
participation in showing, training, and working your dog makes you a better
breeder. By building a network of resources doing these activities, you open
yourself up to puppy referrals.
Advertising can be useful but should be done with care. Many breeders advertise
upcoming litters in breed publications. Newspaper ads should be considered a
last resort as you should have homes lined up before the puppies are born.
When word gets out that you are doing a breeding, you'll probably start getting
phone calls from potential buyers. You should carefully screen these buyers over
the telephone and ideally in person before putting them on your puppy list. The
type of information you should be trying to get from the buyers should focus on
their potential as dog owners. Try to evaluate their intentions and their
understanding of what is involved in raising, training, and caring a dog. You
should try to evaluate their home in terms of things like whether or not they
have a fenced yard, if they will be able to provide the type of exercise
appropriate to the dog. If your breed has special grooming considerations, you
should make sure that they understand these as well.
Part of your job as a breeder is acting as a counselor of sorts to your puppy
buyers. In addition to the above information, you'll want to make sure they
understand all the health concerns for your breed. If they don't ask the right
questions, you should be prepared to fill them in on the information while
explaining everything you have done to avoid these problems.
Most breeders provide a puppy packet with their puppies. These packets include
the bill of sale, any health guarantees (as discussed below), details on what
the dog should be fed, details on what shots and worming the dog has been given,
etc. Puppy packets can also include descriptions of the breed, pedigrees, photos
and health clearances on the parents, information on training, and other items
of interest.
A breeder should be willing to make a lifelong commitment to the puppies they
produce. They should be willing to answer questions or concerns at any time in
the dog's life. Many breeders make a further commitment to take back a dog at
any time in the future should the owner's be unable to keep the dog. People's
lives can change with little or no notice and dog's sometimes suffer. Rather
than seeing one of their puppies end up in the pound, breeders often put a
"right of first refusal" into their contracts.
The AKC has recently started offering limited registrations. This is a great
option for breeders who want to ensure that the puppies they produce don't get
used in the future to add to the pet overpopulation problem. Limited
registrations mean that the dogs so registered can't be shown nor can their
offspring be registered with the AKC. The breeder can change the registration in
the future should the owners decide they want to show or breed it. The breeder
is the only one who can make that change. If you go with this option, you'll
want to explain this carefully to the pet buyers so that they don't
misunderstand or have a problem with it when they come to collect their puppy.
Health Guarantees
Every dog breed has health problems associated with it. Responsible breeders do
everything in their power to avoid these problems in their litters. More and
more breeders are finding some way to stand behind their breeding program by
providing guarantees or warrantees on their puppies. The details will change
depending on the breed and the types of problems seen in the particular breed.
What you offer as a guarantee is up to you. Many people offer money or a
replacement puppy upon proof of the particular problem.
An example is with hip dysplasia: many breeds have a problem with dysplasia and
it is extremely common to evaluate the parents' hips. However, even with these
x-rays and evaluations, there is no way to ensure that the puppies won't be
affected. If the puppies end up having problems, some breeders will refund the
purchase price with the intention of easing the veterinary bills for the owners.
Other breeders will offer a replacement puppy to the owners for sometime in the
future. Some breeders insist that the affected puppies are returned. Some
breeders will insist that the affected puppy be spayed or neutered before
honoring their guarantees. Whatever you do, you need to be very clear with your
buyers about your policies to avoid problems in the future.
Financial
Considerations
Many people go into breeding thinking that it's a great way to make some easy
money. Nothing could be further from the truth. Done correctly, breeding is
rarely a money-making venture. If there are any problems at all, breeding
generally becomes a financial disaster. So, you have to be prepared for possible
expenses that may or may not occur. Keeping a credit card cleared off in case
it's needed can be a good way to handle this type of problem.
Most breeders get a deposit of some sort from potential buyers at some point
during the process. Some breeders require a deposit before putting buyers on
their list. Some don't accept deposits until the puppies are born and they are
sure they have a puppy for the buyer. Whatever you decide to do, please be sure
to carefully explain under what circumstances you will or won't return the
deposit so as to avoid unpleasantness in the future.
Whatever your deposit arrangements, you should require payment-in-full before
turning your puppies over to the new owners. The price of the puppies depends on
your breed and the market in your area. Ask around among other breeders,
consider your expenses, and set a fair price for your puppies.
If you have a large litter with no problems, you can expect to pay your expenses
and, perhaps, make a little extra money. If you have any problems at all,
including a small litter, you will probably loose money on breeding a litter.
Done correctly, breeding puppies is no way to make your fortune.
Resources
All of the above information is very general, please be aware that certain
breeds have very specific needs and/or problems during breeding, whelping, and
puppy rearing. Please contact your breeder or veterinarian or refer to a good
book on your breed for more information on how to deal with these specific
issues.
Books
Canine Reproduction, Phyllis A Holst, MS, DVM, Alpine Publications, 1985.
Dog Breeding for Professionals, Dr. Herbert Richards, TFH Publications, Inc.,
1978.
Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, second edition, Delbert G Carlson, DVM and
James M Giffin, MD, Howell Book House, 1992.
The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog, Ann Serrane, Howell Book House, 1980.
Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, Richard H
Pitcairn, DVM and Susan Hubble Pitcairn, Rodale Press, 1995.
Articles
AKC Gazette, August 1995.
Breeding, Whelping, and Rearing Puppies Page PAGE 26
Updated 04/05/2008
© 2003-Present/ Majesty Chows